I was able to resolve this. I didn't realize there was a new force restart sequence since the emergency all process took over the power/volume combo (which is what I'd been trying). New process was to:
Press and release the volume up button.
Press and release the volume down button.
Press and hold the side button until the screen turns off and then turns back on. You can release the side button when the Apple logo appears.
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On the plus side, battery has been draining pretty quickly in iOS 14, so a full drain shouldn't take too long. I can interact with control center, so I've gone ahead and turned on flashlight and set screen to max brightness, and I'm losing about 1% per minute of battery, so hopefully, I'll force a restart in the next hour or so....