FB11504586 has been resolved by updating the documentation at
https://developer.apple.com/documentation/technotes/tn3135-low-level-networking-on-watchos
So it's definitely not possible to check for connectivity on watchOS apps that don't fit the narrow use cases for low-level networking. :(
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We're getting reports for the same issue and some of our affected users can confirm that this workaround works, thanks!